The History of Traditional Wear for Women in India
India’s rich cultural heritage is reflected in its diverse traditional attire, with the saree standing as one of the most iconic and enduring garments for women. As one of the oldest known pieces of clothing in the world, the saree is not just a garment but a symbol of elegance, grace, and tradition. Its journey through history offers a fascinating insight into the evolution of fashion and the changing roles of women in Indian society.
Origins of the Saree
The history of the saree dates back over 5,000 years to the Indus Valley Civilization, where women were depicted wearing draped cloths. The earliest references to the saree can be found in ancient scriptures, including the Rigveda, which mentions the attire of women as “nāga” (bare) or “patravali,” where the fabric was draped around the body in various ways. These early depictions show the simplicity and fluidity of the garment, which was often worn with a simple tie or knot, allowing women to move freely and comfortably.
By the time of the Mauryan and Gupta periods, the saree had evolved into a more structured form, with women wearing elaborate drapes made from cotton or silk. The use of fine fabrics and the skill of weavers during this period marked the beginning of what we now recognize as the saree. It was during the medieval era that sarees started to become more regionally distinct, with each region of India developing its own unique weaving techniques and styles.
The Role of the Saree Through the Ages
Over the centuries, the saree became more than just a piece of clothing; it began to symbolize various aspects of Indian culture, tradition, and even social status. During the Mughal era, the saree saw a significant transformation. Women started to wear heavier, more luxurious fabrics like silk, and intricate embroidery work—such as zari (gold thread) and brocade—was introduced. The Mughal influence also brought about the use of the “lehenga” style saree, where the fabric was stitched together as a skirt, and the pallu (the loose end of the saree) was draped over the shoulder in an intricate manner.
In southern India, the saree continued to evolve with distinctive regional variations, such as the Kanjivaram silk sarees, known for their rich colors and intricate borders. Similarly, the Banarasi saree from Varanasi became a symbol of grandeur with its delicate patterns and gold work, often worn during weddings and festivals.
The Modern Saree: A Symbol of Empowerment
In the colonial period, the saree underwent further changes, influenced by Western fashion. However, it never lost its importance as a traditional garment. After India’s independence in 1947, the saree saw a revival as women began to embrace it as a symbol of cultural pride and national identity.
In contemporary India, the saree has adapted to the changing needs of modern women. While traditional draping styles continue to be popular, modern variations of the saree, such as the pre-pleated saree and saree gowns, have made the garment more accessible and comfortable for daily wear. The saree remains a preferred choice for women at weddings, festivals, and formal events, while its global appeal has also been growing. Women around the world are now embracing the saree as a symbol of timeless elegance, blending it with modern accessories to create fashionable and chic looks.